Kage Tatsu's Rapier Fencing 103


Rapier Style Fencing 301

Now you have learned Rapier techniques, here is information on the different kinds of blocks, a few new moves, and the use of other weapons.


From Parry-6 position, you are ready to attack and block using your second hand glove.
The motion is a rotation from the inside up to block the blade coming at your upper torso or head.
The motion is a rotation from the inside to the downward position to block a blade coming at your mid torso to leg.


The Bell Crash involves you getting the oppontunity, or creating the opportunity for you to get your mid blade alongside your opponents midblade or tip, then rapidly ramming your sword down alongside mid point or tip, causing the guard of your blade to crash into their sword. This sudden "hammer" effect pushes your opponents blade far away for a moment, hopefully long enough for you to make your attack.
In this move, you move your blades mid section to your opponents blades mid section. Then, you rapidly sling your blade along his, to the side. The goal of this move is similiar to a Bell Crash, in that you want your opponents blade to be flung to the side for enough time for you to make your attack.
In this maneuver, you are actually attacking with a bent arm. The aim on this attack is to lock your opponents blade out, while lunging at the face. To begin with, make sure that your opponent is in a "Parry 6" stance. You will raise your weapon up from a Parry 6 to a Parry 4 move, while "balestera-ing" forward and bringing the bell of your weapon up. This will leave you in a Parry 4 position, but your arm will be up a foot to a foot and a half higher than normal. Your parrying hand/weapon will go down to block a lower riposte. If done correctly, you will be very close to your opponent, with their blade locked out to your left. Your main weapon is catching their weapon, and blocking the high, and your secondary is blocking your low. You should be able to reach out and extend your right arm a touch and strike your opponent in the mask. If they attempt to retreat, lunge from your new position, and strike the mask. Recover into a Parry 4. This is one of the very few times you will attack with a bent arm. Speed and accuracy allow this "power attack" to be very effective.
In this move, you aim for your opponents foot or knee, but at the last moment angle your blade tip up and hit your opponents chin or face. A foot stomp also sometimes helps in this maneuver, as your opponent will look down at the noise, and the tip movement, and usually this also helps create a hole for your blade tip to travel from your opponents lower body to his face.



This is the most commonly used weapon in general mele combat. Sometimes it is also used in tournaments, but not as often as the Dagger. The advantages to a second sword are the distance in which you can make an attack with your secondary weapon, the reduced time to continue an attack or defense if you lose your primary hand, and it allows for a block from a further distance than a dagger.
The dagger is the most common secondary weapon used. It allows for a very fast parry, as well as its existance as a possible threat to your opponent. If you and your opponent get to close together for swords to be used effectively, the dagger becomes the best way to ensure a touch against your opponent.
The stick is modeled after a fighter pulling his sword from his scabbard, and then using the scabbard as a parrying device. One does not actually use a scabbard, because the scabbard would get all knicked up and damged, but a wooden stick does very well as a imitation of the scabbard. The stick of course has to have the same size and consistancy of a scabbard. A rarely used item, the stick actually works very well in trapping an opponents blade, as the softer wood causes attacks against it to "stick" a bit, and the expected beats, glides, etc. do not work as your opponents is used to, as he is hitting soft wood rather than metal. It can't be used to hit an opponent, and this makes the stick a rarely used secondary item.
Not allowed in many kingdoms or events, the use of hand grapling needs to be done very carefully. No actual person to person body contact is allowed, but it is rather an attack on your opponents weapon, hand or arm. More of a push or shove to make your opponents weapon move away, this move requires much practice and skill to use. It is very fun to do and to watch. It is also very historically accurate for real combat. Always check with your event marshal to see if this is allowed.

The cape is also a very rarely used item, and even more rarely used correctly. Most people would assume that the cape is used to wrap the second arm in, and thus prevent it from being taken. Not so, the primary use of the cape is to hide your blades attack. A swirling motion to cause the cape to billow up in front of you, thus hiding if your blade is coming in high, low, side, or straight thru is the way a cape is used. It can also be used to trap your opponents blade for a moment. The cape is hard to learn properly, hard to use effectively, and thus rarely used. It can be great fun to watch its use however, and if someone comes at your with a cape, few people know how to defend against it well



Not approved yet, but quite possibly in the near future, the Naginata spear is a Japanese Kendo practice device, with a bendable tip made of woven bamboo. This tip bends when slashed or point driven into an opponent. Probably the west coast will see the first use of the Naginata, and links to purchase it are found in the shopping area. I look forward to experimenting with this in the near future.



If your opponent is not in range, you can keep your buckler closer to your body to rest your arm. If he is in range to hit you, with a lunge or balisteri, you need to keep your buckler well in front of you. The buckler can also be used not only to deflect an incoming shot, but can also be used to "punch" the opponents weapon, and thus push it to the side. My buckler is leather covered, to help the opponent "stick" the blade to the front, allowing me more control over my opponents weapon.
You can't see it from this angle, but the buckler is fully extended by my left arm. This gives an opponent only my right hand and right leg as a target for his counter attack. Know this, and be prepared to parry or retreat, protecting that exposed leg or right hand.
Here I am outside of the range of my attacker. I am resting my arm that is holding onto the buckler. If your opponent is not in range, you do not need to extend the buckler. Only when in attack range do you need to extend it. Don't wear your self out with your buckler fully extended at all times if it is not needed!
If I am in range, or if I am attacking, I extend the buckler as far as I can in front of me. This increases the "cone" of protection that I have against my opponent. I should actually have my back straight, and not leaning forward like I am. If you are lunging, or in attack range, keep that buckler out!
Blocking high, and lunging mid or low. Always keep your buckler between you and your opponents blade, and do not let your opponents blade get in such a way that you do not know where it is. Do not cover your eyes with your buckler, or you will not know where your opponents blade is!
If your opponents weapon is mid or high, you can try to hit your adversaries leg or foot, and protect yourself by raising the buckler high. Again, be carefull not to cover your eyes, you need to see what your opponent is doing.

If your opponents weapon is low, you can protect yourself by keeping your buckler low.

If you do this however, and your opponents blade is mid or high, you are opening yourself up for a shot to your head.

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